A journey down the Spey ...

Journey

Pronunciation [jur-nee] noun, plural -neys, verb, -neyed, -neying.
-noun
1. a traveling from one place to another, usually taking a rather long time; trip: a six-day journey across the desert.
2. a distance, course, or area traveled or suitable for traveling: a desert journey.
3. a period of travel: a week's journey.
4. passage or progress from one stage to another: the journey to success.
–verb (used without object)
5. to make a journey; travel.

-----------------------------------

This year more than most, I have been lucky enough to do a few point to point adventures. There is something very nice about starting in one place and finishing in another. Technically, the fact that I leave home and return home …all journeys are circular I suppose. By any definition, a descent of the river Spey over five days in a canoe counts as a journey in my book!

To mark Jim hitting the tender age of 50, a wee team consisting of Gordon B, Drew, Brian, myself and obviously Jim signed up for the Spey trip with Spey Descents whom Jim had previously used for a one day taster session.

Since we were to arrive on the Sunday evening, I took the opportunity to take a short detour to take in the wee Corbett above Dalwhinnie on the way north. It was nice that the train times suited. The hill was simple enough and I even had time to sit outside the Dalwhinnie Distillery to eat the remainder of my lunch before finishing the journey to Newtonmore.

With Spey Descent being based in the Beeches which is located on Station Road, I was confident of finding the place! I met up with my wee Sis, Jim and niece Heather before introductions to Dave (oor river guide and general fixer), his wife Jude followed by the Drew and Brian. We sorted boat & kit for the trip and got sorted for the first of the 3 course dinners that were to become the norm.

Next morning we transferred up Kincraig and got into the canoes for the first time. I had very limited experience of open boats so was extremely grateful for the teach in where Dave gave us the basic skills to allow a “safe and successful” descent. Full of confidence (not always a good thing), we left Loch Insh and practiced manoeuvres by circling the bridge supports. The Spey on the section between Kincraig and Aviemore in generally pretty flat but we found a few small white bits to practice ferry gliding as well as breaking in and out of eddy pools. The monuments to the Duke and Duchess of Gordon marked the start of the end of day 1 and soon we pulled up onto the shore opposite the Old Bridge Inn. Accommodation that evening was back at the Beeches which as well as another fantastic dinner gave a chance to rethink personal kit choices for the remainder of the journey.

Day two started where we left off the evening before but with one difference …the boats were fully loaded with everything we needed to be self supporting for the remainder of the trip. All the food and a fair majority of the group equipment was stashed in barrels with the remainder and personal kit in double dry bags. Dave suggested that this section was fairly tame and it was …but it would have been a terrible shame to have excluded it from the trip. Missing it would have been missing the point - not only would it have broken the complete journey but it showed a different character of the river. It was during this section I really became aware of the birdlife around the river …not only the osprey but also the buzzards, oyster catchers, dippers, lapwings, numerous ducks, megansers, wagtails and a rather haunting curlew.

This section also had me soloing for the first time – not as easy as I had hoped for! At one point it felt like I was covering double the distance I should have been …a straight line eluding me. Instead of concentrating on improving my “J” stroke, I opted for swapping sides – this got me a gentle comment asking me what I was doing (the actual words are better left off this description). Think some time on my own is required on flat water! We arrived at Balliefurth – the site of our first camp. Boats were unloaded and we started to get the tents up. For a goodly while, I have been looking at Tentipi Tents. Nice surprise was Dave having one along as a general living shelter – I was well impressed. We set off to collect some wood for the fire whilst dinner was prepared (I also managed a wee snooze). The high standard of cooking enjoyed at the Beeches was continued as was the dram in front of the ever growing fire.


Next morning was fairly relaxed as we packed up, loaded up the boats and continued on down the Spey. This section was where things got a bit “interesting”. The use of the term “interesting” is interchangeable with “splishy splashy” or “bouncy” etc … For the first time heart rates were raised and the center of gravity in the boats …lowered. Thankfully everyone was coping with the white stuff and the miles felt easier on the arms compared to the previous day. Sadly the weather was not all it could have been and by the time we arrived at the overnight camp beside Ballindalloch Station. Dry clothes sorted that out. If day 2 had brought about an added interest in the natural history along the river, day 3 brought about an added interest in the spirits surrounding the river …malt whisky to be exact. Look in any good pub and you will see the river Spey mapped out along the bar with bottles of Cragganmore, Knockando, Tamdhu, Aberlour, Glenfiddich, Balvenie, MacAllan all being waypoints of significance.

The rain seriously tipped down during the night but it was dry for breaking camp and the ramble back across the fields to the boats. By now life was simple, pack the canoe, paddle, stop for lunch, paddle, unload the boats, set up camp, eat, sleep etc … As was usual, the river started to change character again. One of the wonderful things about Scotland is how varied the landscape is over a relatively small number of miles. Once drove for days across a section of the northeast of the USA …and the land never changed …not once. We bounced over some more splishy splashy sections and passed some more folks fishing – some very friendly and interested in how far we were going and some well …less interested. In every case Dave made sure they at least acknowledged our presence. We also made a stop for coffee and scones in Aberlour – felt a bit self conscious wandering through the town very obviously being paddlers due to the wee trail of water dripping behind us !

One last push and we arrived at Craigellachie and our last campsite. The previous process that had become habit was repeated for the last time. It was good to meet up with Irene, Heather, Karen and Eva for a bite to eat before the boys headed off in search of drams. We found the Uisge Beathe in the amazing Fiddochside Inn run for the last 44 years by Joe. Wandering back to the tents I thought about how much longer the Inn will remain as it is …I will not go into detail about what I mean …far better to visit and experience it yourself whilst you still can.

We loaded up for the last time next morning – it is that strange part of a trip where you know it is the beginning of the end …a mix of pleasure in knowing you will be achieving what you set out to achieve, the excitement on knowing you will be seeing folks you care about again, a little sadness at stopping …and thinking towards the next big thing! I cannot remember the exact stop but was over the moon to see my first river otter …very special indeed. At Fochabers, there was time for one last lunch stop before continuing on towards the sea. Not only did the smell start to change (definelty salt in the air) but the surrounding noise of seagulls indicated that we did not have far to go. We came round one last corner and there is was … the gap in the beach. All that was left to do was exchange congratulations and load up the canoe trailer … journey complete.

Huge thanks to Dave and Jude for all the organisation, coaching, cooking and general fixing. Equal thanks to Jim for suggesting the trip and to Gordon, Drew and Brian for the company.