Ultramarathon Caballo Blanco - A Journey Back

27th February 2013 - the “mas loco” group hike from Cerocahui to Urique

We are about to cross a river marking the start of the approach to the canyon which would lead down to Urique. Our Tarahumara guides paused as Luis climbed onto the bridge to speak. He recounted his own story of a similar approach with Micah True back in 2006 before informing us that “if we did not want our lives to change in any way, we should turn back since things would forever be different if we continued”. I laughed a little at the idea …Luis replied “yeah, that’s what I did as well but I am serious”. We then took the oath “if I get hurt, lost or die …it’s my own damn fault” …

In the five years that followed, I did get hurt and lost (entirely my own fault) but avoided getting killed at least !

Sometime in the middle of 2017

A larvae of a plan to return to the Copper Canyons had formed but was going back a good idea ? The main concern centered around a fear of diluting the previous memories – I accept that all memories are at best a slightly filtered and distorted collection of images held somewhere in a tired heart and head …but they are mine at least.

In the end, the plan was to return but with differences …mainly being the journey to the start line and for sport, do the full Ultramarathon Caballo Blanco in my Luna Sandals.

Getting there & back

Along with ma auld amigo Peter and Katie …we hatched a plan.

• Fly to Mexico City – spend a couple of days exploring with Mike and Citlali (we did a fun cycle round closed roads on the Sunday and hike in Desierto de los Leones on the Monday)
•  Fly to Chihuahua  - overnight here.
• Ride the stunning El Chepe train – leaves Chihuahua at 6am and is around an 8 hour journey to Bahuichivo !
• Grab a lift from Bahuichivo to the San Isidro Lodge – meet with pals, enjoy a night at the top of the canyons, take part in an early morning temazcal (sweat lodge ceremony)
• Continue down to Urique – a ride like no other on a dirt road.
• The trip back from pretty much a reverse of the above but we went directly from Urique the morning after the race back to Bahuichivo to catch the lunchtime train.

Arriving in Urique …

Arriving in town felt good ..very good. We found our accommodation which was just off the main street (muchas gracias to my friend Cecy Villalobos for sorting that out for us) and promptly went to one of the most important places …the Plaza Restaurant more well known as Mama Titas. Easy to find since outside if the memorial to Micah with the words "While they're at war, we come together to make peace here at the bottom of a canyon." …a sentiment that continues to resonate loudly. We hugged Mama Tita and sat down to a meal washed down with cold Tecate. 

Our room just off the main street had a nice touch was a fridge so we could be guaranteed cold drinks pretty much whenever we needed them. Unpacked (not that we had a lot to unpack) and a ramble down the street and a wee game of chase with some kids who appeared to have a mix of amusement and wonder a my beard before meeting up with other Mas Loco down at the Entre Amigo camp ground. Had initially thought about staying here but it would have meant hauling camp gear out from the UK so opted for the room. Lovely to catch up with folks who had headed down the day before including the wonderful character that is Barefoot Ted.

Los Olisos …

Next morning we were up early to grab some breakfast before jumping a truck to the bridge at the bottom of the trail that leads up to Los Olisos and Prospero’s ranch. A place of great importance back in 2013 where we gathered to spread Micah’s ashes and it felt every bit as important to revisit this time round out with the actual race itself. The truck was kind of due to arrive sometime around 8am, inquiries indicated something would happen around 10am and it eventually arrived at 11:30am – funny but the delay wasn’t an issue, it was good simply to enjoy more coffee, grab some snacks for the hike, catch up with folks wandering around and simply observe the world as it passed by. Once on the truck we enjoyed the roller-coaster ride ducking to avoid the odd low hanging branch. It was also good to see more of the course – a key section that would be tough in the full midday heat.

The hike was as stunning as I remember it. Over the bridge and gorgeous single track – some steep, some very steep and lots of rolling flats to recover on. Big difference this year was the amount of water in the stream. Not only lovely to stop and cool down by but the amount of green plants in the canyon was incredible. Just short of Prospero’s place, we stopped and sat by the river for a while ..braw ! 

Up at the ranch, we got to enjoy what I reckon to be the sweetest grapefruit on the planet. If for nothing else …go there and experience that alone. Paid a silent respect and nod to Micah before starting back down the trail. Back down at the bridge, some swam and some relaxed before another truck arrived to take us back into town.

The kids race …

Words alone will struggle to capture this. Go to pretty much any park and you’ll see kids run – the rarely walk when playing. Not sure and what point in our lives we forget or choose to stop playing but it is sad for sure. Imagine gathering hundreds of kids and organising an event where they get to race against each other for a shirt and medal donated from some far distant place, imagine these kids running in jeans, skirts, some with shoes, some running in socks, some in sandals and some barefoot and you’ll start to get the picture. Imagine the best possible smiles and simple enjoyment and you’ll start to get the idea. Like I said, I struggle to capture this properly – thankfully the Boulder based film maker and all round good guy Ryan van Duzer made a short film which covers it perfectly.

Our race …

There is a level of background activity that I would normally struggle with that means noise is almost always coming and going – dogs, roosters, mariachi music …pretty much anything you might think of. Despite it all sleep is good and at 4am …the alarm goes off. Not much to do other than grab some food, get dressed and walk the short distance to the start line. Hugs abound and we nearly forgot to collect the first bracelet to indicate a start. It went from dark to early light almost at the point where the race started. Heading out of town on the first loop was amazing, pals around and Tarahumara heading off at a fair pace. The fair Katie was pushing a tad quick and was soon heading into the distance.

Round the church at Guadalupe and it was time to start retracing the route – it would be many hours before we would return here on the final 14km. This section of the course is on a good double track dirt road so it is easy to relax and enjoy the views up towards the top of the canyon. Running in my Origens sandals, I spent some time getting used to relaxing into the ground feel that was key if I was to avoid unnecessary muscle tiredness. My only concern was coming out the Scottish winter, my feet were still soft having been used to socks and shoes ..time would tell.

Back at the bridge it was fun to see pals who weren’t running but had come out to support. Quick drink and some fruit, turn right and head towards the first hill. As is usual, if it feels like a hill then a walk break is in order. Could see the Blonde half of the outfit just ahead and as she stopped to refill bottles at the aid station which marks the start of the single track I nipped in front. The next section of single track is my favourite bit of the course – it feels familiar and the closest the canyons comes to feeling like a Scottish Hill Race. Pace is very much dictated by the terrain and that of other runners around you. I had a eclectic bunch with other gringos mixed in with local Tarahumara and Mexican nationals – common language was established as smiles and facial expressions indicating it was starting to get hot. As we neared Mesa Naranjo, Katie pulled up alongside me and it was good to spend a few km together. Once at the aid station, we grabbed from more water and fruit before starting the descent back to town. I was still cautious in the Lunas and very quickly Katie opened up a significant gap and it would be a while before I saw here again. I concentrated to keeping my feet together but a couple of hot spots were starting on the soles due to the climb / descend combination – in hindsight, I should have either pre-taped or  stopped to tighten the lacing up.

Back in town, the atmosphere was incredible. Again pals who were running were out shouting support and the locals had really gotten into the spirit and making every runner feel special. Pace lifted and it was impossible not to smile and shout gratitude back.

Other side of town and it was time to concentrate for the long out and back. The road is tough ..very tough indeed and keeping things sensible key. Go too quick here and you’ll pay big style. Since 2013 there are more aid stations so water really isn’t an issue but I find the body starts to complain and a little bit of something cold and fresh is in order. The village of Guapalaina has a small store …with a fridge and ice cold bottles of Coke. I grabbed a bottle, handed over some peso and sat outside. The cold coke flowed straight into the blood stream or so it felt. The short run to La Laja was fine and back over the bridge heading up to Los Olisos. Lovely moment was arriving at the same time as one of the greatest guys I have the privilege to know – Flint. We don’t get to see each other that often but every moment is special – along with his girl Julie, we took some time out of the race to remember why we were there and mark a toast of sorts to “absent friends”.

By now the soles of my feet were complaining and the hot spots had turned into blisters. I stopped, taped them up best I could, adjusted the straps and headed back down the trail.

Now I was getting reports of a “blonde girl kicking my ass” …I was proud of her. Katie had certainly put in the miles of training and it appeared she was getting the full benefit. I stopped again in Guapalaina for another bottle of Coke knowing it would fuel the return to Urique.

Arriving back in town, I could relax …life was good. Being honest, my greatest fear was a DNF – most races don’t mean much but UMCB matters loads to me and the idea of not finishing wasn’t one I wanted to think about but also the reality of staying healthy in the high thirties as challenging as the 50 miles. There was only a 14km out and back to do and I was well within the cut off time so “all” I had to do is keep moving. Back on the familiar trail the kms were passing by. Nothing quick and well down on my 2013 time but it didn’t matter …I was enjoying being somewhere beautiful sharing the experience with those around me.

I had expected to see Katie early on during this section. She was well ahead by all accounts ..had she already finished !?!?!?! There was also an element of worry – was she okay given how hot it had been ? As I approached Guadalupe, I met her and Olly …she was okay just and the heat had taken a serious toll mixed with what turned out to be a chronic loss of salts. I put in a slightly faster km or two before finally catching them up and getting the whole story. I was deeply grateful to Olly for side-lining his own race to stay with Katie and keeping her in the race. 

My own situation wasn’t ideal since in addition to nippy feet, my stomach had decided that it was no longer up for taking on any more water – not a huge issue with only around 5km to go.

At the edge of Urique, it got dark …like someone had turned the lights off as the sun went down. The last few hundred metres was like a disco …music, flashing lights and suddenly it was over – we had finished hand in hand.

There is more I could write about how it felt but it is personal and I probably wouldn’t do it justice here …

What makes this different from other events …

I can only answer this from my own perspective but more than anything, it proves how great humanity can be. Despite all our different lives, we are pretty much the same – we all love our families, need somewhere safe to sleep and need food in our bellies. The race has changed in the time I’ve known it – now much bigger and sadly, it feels as if some of the key people involved in the earlier days don’t get the recognition I feel they deserve. The upside is that more people than every get to experience the simple beauty of running free deep in a place that is hard to get to. I hope this event continues to be a focus for the Copper Canyons and going by the kids race, the next generation is going to keep the Tarahumara traditions alive. 

To everyone who has been part of this adventure, thank you from the bottom of my heart - it means everything.

To Katie - thank you for riding shotgun and for accepting me for exactly what I am !

Corre Libre amigos …